There's Something About Collagen

There’s no doubt the buzz word on experts lips over recent years is collagen. Whether you are drinking it, popping pills of it, stimulating or creating it – there is no denying the importance of preserving or increasing collagen levels as the answer to younger skin. But what exactly is collagen and what are the best methods to help build and protect your client’s natural anti-ageing superhero?

WHAT IS COLLAGEN?

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and is found mainly in the skin, muscles, bones, cartilage and all the body’s connective tissue. In the skin, collagen is responsible for its strength and elasticity. Collagen is made by the fibroblast cells found in the dermis. In addition to making collagen, fibroblast cells are also responsible for elastin production, as well as natural moisturising factors such as Hyaluronic acid. Fibroblast cells protect collagen by inhibiting collagenase (an enzyme that breaks down collagen) and also make pro-collagenases which destroy old and damaged collagen. Normal healthy collagen (in the lattice-type formation) is incredible strong. It can be compared to a rubber band as it is extremely elastic and springs back when stretched.

There are several factors that contribute to collagen loss including; Natural skin ageing and UV damage. Other key contributory factors to collagen loss include free radical damage and lifestyle (for example smoking, excess caffeine, and alcohol and sugar consumption). If fibroblasts are damaged by UV rays or free radicals they will produce defective collagen. If deep, long term damage to the structural proteins occur then the skin loses its tone and structure. Therefore it is important to always advise clients to safeguard their natural collagen by ensuring they protect their skin from UV damage and follow a healthy diet and lifestyle.

COLLAGEN – THE ELIXIR OF YOUTH?

The quest for eternal youth is something many strive for and youthful skin can become the ultimate skincare goal. But unfortunately, ageing is a natural part of life and as time passes by collagen levels start to decline. From the age of 20, 1% percent less of collagen is produced in the dermis each year. As we age less collagen is produced and both collagen and elastin fibres break, thicken, stiffen, clump together and lose their elasticity.

Without collagen the skin will lose its youthful, plumpness and slowly the signs of ageing become increasingly visible. There is no stopping the ageing process. Luckily there are ways to slow it down and prevent some of the visible signs of ageing. One way to preserve youthful skin is to activate or regenerate fibroblast cells ensuring a good supply of collagen fibres and firmer skin.

HOW TO POWER UP COLLAGEN?

There has been plenty of buzz in recent years of the various ways to increase collagen levels. Now more than ever, there are more and more brands hitting the market from collagen pills, drinks, powders containing hydrolysed collagen (often derived from fish or bovine) claiming to combat wrinkles and fine lines. The global collagen market is anticipated to reach 6.63 billion USD by 2025. But what are the most effective treatments to help boost collagen? Although consuming collagen itself may seem like an obvious way to boost the body’s collagen levels, the effects of ingesting collagen in any form are difficult to determine. As collagen is a protein, once digested it is broken down in the gut and its challenging to establish if once broken down will reach the layers of the skin where it is needed.

Research has shown that vitamin A as well as vitamin C are vital for collagen production. In a scientific study, researchers found that vitamin C plays a critical role in the maintenance of normal mature collagen network in humans by preventing the auto-inactivation of lysyl and prolyl hydroxylase, two key enzymes in collagen biosynthesis. Vitamin C stimulates at least four genes related to collagen and elastin production. Putting together vitamin A and C are vital for normal, healthy production of collagen and elastin. Vitamin A influences up to a thousand of the body’s genes and should always be recommended to clients for maximum results. It is essential for the normal function of all skin cells. It induces the genes for collagen production – healthy lattice-type collagen type I and III. Vitamin A also increases NMF (natural moisturising factors) in the skin and improves the quality of elastin.

According to research vitamin A is effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photo-damage. It has been found that treating the skin with vitamin A prevents the loss of type I and II collagen caused by UV exposure.

With the mounting amount of information on collagen on the market, it is easy for clients to feel overwhelmed as to which method to choose from when looking for collagen products or treatments for anti-ageing concerns. Encouraging clients to stimulate collagen naturally by providing the skin with the vitamins it needs to build collagen on its own and stimulating collagen through advanced salon treatments will give clients long lasting optimum results.